Korgalzhyn State Nature Reserve
Kazakhstan reserves. The Biggest reserves in Kazakhstan
KORGALZHYN A WETLAND PARADISE
Centuries-old culture of Kazakhstan wealth of attrac tions and unique nature charm visitors not only with their beauty but also with their singularity. In the very heart of Kazakhstan, 160 km northwest of Astana, there is the Kurgalja National Preserve. The Korgalzhyn National Park is the largest preserve zone in Kazakhstan occupies the area of about 258,9 thousands hectares and including 198.000 hectares of water land.
Despite being under 3 hours from Astana, and possessing a collection of birdlife that has recently attracted a nomination for UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Korgalzhyn area remains surprisingly unknown, even within Kazakhstan.
The vast wetland area, a combination of virgin steppe and lakes, is home to wolves, marmots and saiga. However, it is the birds, and the pink flamingo in particular, that are the real attraction.
Located at the crossroads of two migration routes, the wetlands act as a giant motorway junction service station for birds (Lake Tengiz alone has the capacity to feed 15 million birds).
The area, most of which is protected as a 'Zapovednik' (national nature reserve), is home to the world's most northerly population of pink flamingos, one of over 300 species of bird, which includes one of the largest wildfowl population in Asia. Other notable residents include pelicans, cranes and a variety of birds of prey.
Spring and summer (mid April to September) provide the best opportunity to see the wide range of birds. Flamingos should be resident during the whole of this period. For a fortnight at the end of April and start of May, the steppe bursts into colour as tulips come into bloom. Ice fishing is popular in winter months.
It is set in the Tengiz-Kurgal ja Depression located at the junction of steppe and semi-desert zones separating Kazakh sandstone area from the Kokchetav Hills. There are no big trees in its territory. This is the kingdom of stunted shrub bery and grass, solely typical of steppe.
Here is the most beautiful feather-grass steppe. The territory of preserve is the connection of two large lakes Tengiz and Korgalzhin. The word "tengiz" in its translation means "sea". The total area of water land is 159000 hectares which is larger of Zheneva Lake area in twice, and its water mineralization exceeds the oceans salt in 5-6 times. The preserve's flora counts about 350 kinds of plants 90% of which are grass plants. The fauna counts about 82 kinds of birds 33 of which are included in the "Red Book", they are black lark, great bustard, crane, gyrfalcon and steppe windhover. Here is the northern nesting of the pink flamingo.
In the territory of the Kurgalja Preserve the luckiest tour ists can come across black stork, hooping swan and brand gooze; and in the reed-beds wild boars are hiding. From time to time, foresters from Northern Kazakhstan and West ern Siberia, such as lynx, roe and elk visit this reserved territory.
On its territory there are no large trees, this is domain of low grass and bush typical for the steppe area. The Kurgaljinski lakes are rich in fish, including food species. They are golden and argentine crucians, ides, pikes, tenches, perches, roaches. Lake Tengiz (which stands for a 'sea' in Kazakh) is the largest in the reserve.
It is made unique by the pink flamingoes, nesting on the islands of the ancient lake. Here is the world's utmost northern colony of these wonderful birds. They lived here even in the Palaeocene Period, when all the Tengiz-Kurgaljinski Cavity was covered with the Tetis Sea.
The Kurgalja Lakes are rich in fish including industrial species: golden and silver crucian, ide, pike, tench, perch and roach.
Lake Tengiz is the biggest one among the lakes of the Preserve. Its total area is 1,590 sq. km; the length of its coastline is 488 km. This place is unique because of pink flamingos nes tling on the islands of the ancient lake. This is the world's most northern nestle colony of these beautiful birds. They have been living there since palaeogene when the entire Tengiz-Kurgalja Depression was under the Tetis Sea.
On the territory of the Kurgaljinski Reserve a lucky tourist can meet a black stork and a screaming swan. Wild pigs hide in the cane dens.
Occasionally the reserved territory is visited by the wood inhabitants - lynx, roe deer and elk.
Visiting the Area
The area's low profile, and restrictions accompanying the Zapovednik status, mean that tourism is relatively new and small-scale. Nonetheless, the area is familiar with receiving birdwatchers from around the world and its low profile has helped it avoid the environmental damage seen in other more popular natural areas.
The small town of Korgalzhyn, just outside of the Zapovednik, provides a good starting point and base for visits to the area.
Easily reached by bus/minibus from Astana, it is home to the Zapovednik administration offices, nature museum and a number of homestay guesthouses. The town's small shops provide the final opportunity to stock up before entering the Zapovednik.
Visitors to the Zapovednik must register and buy a permit at the administration offices before entering. It is best (and essential if arriving at the weekend) to inform the administration, before arriving, of your plan to enter.
Their offices also house the nature museum ; a collection of exhibits showing the wildlife and history of the Zapovednik. Visits to the museum include a guided tour.
Accommodation
Relax in friendly homestay guesthouses that provide simple, but comfortable accommodation. Here you will be provided with your own private bedroom and the opportunity to taste the delicious flavours of locally and home-grown ingredients featuring in the meals served by trained hosts.
Although not having the luxurious facilities of a five star hotel, the warm welcome and homely surroundings are highly rated by visitors. Hosts quickly become friends that you will remember for years to come.
Details of homestay guesthouses can be obtained by contacting the local environmental organisation, Rodnik. Again, it is best to phone in advance of arrival. They can also arrange tours outside of the Zapovednik that provide similar opportunities for seeing the wildlife.
Within the nature reserve, a simple guesthouse and wooden cabins are set alongside Lake Sultankeldi at the scientific station of Karajar.
Alternatively, Akmola Tourist, based in Astana, can arrange a packaged trip to the Zaporvednik including accommodation at Karajar, transport and entrance.
(tel: 8 (3172) 3304 14, ).
Escape to a landscape unchanged by time.
A steppe landscape of wide horizons and vast skies.
Allow your senses to be refreshed by the fragrance of wild plants and the music of birdsong.
Gaze at deep blue lakes and bright steppe tulips.
Share the home of flamingos and pelicans in one of Asia's richest collection of wildfowl.
Enjoy the warm hospitality of local people and the glow of the setting sun.
Getting There & Around
There is a daily scheduled service of four buses/minibuses ( gazelle) in each direction between Astana and Korgalzhyn (journeys take 2 - 2.5 hours):
To Korgalzhyn - depart Astana bus station (across the car park from the train station):
11.50, 13.00, 17.00, and 18.40
To Astana - depart from Korgalzhyn bus station (200m from Zapovednik on main road to Astana): 07.00, 08.00, 13.00 and 17.00.
Tickets should be bought at the bus stations at least a few hours before travelling as services are popular and can be subject to changes. (Korgaldzhyn bus station is open only during the 30 mins before departures).
Taxis at Astana train station will travel to Korgaldzhyn. Rodnik can recommend drivers from Korgalzhyn. (Fares are generally lower in the morning when the driver is confident of finding a return fare). If you make advance arrangements to enter the Zapovednik it may be possible for the driver to include a pick up and drop off from Astana station for an additional fee. v
The Zapovednik administration arrange for drivers to take visitors into the nature reserve. The drivers' knowledge of the current location of the various wildlife is invaluable given the large size of the reserve.
Joint project of OrexCA.com and KTA & KAGIR. Information is taken from CD "All about tourism in Kazakhstan"
